For those of you planning to travel to a warm, beautiful and fascinating country: I’m no longer the only one recommending the Sultanate of Oman

11 years after her previous journey, Weekend Knack journalist Tessa Vermeiren returned to Oman to find out that the country had enormously evolved under the reign of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos Bin Said. The country’s development from an extremely isolated, 19th (or even 18th) century lifestyle towards a wealthy, adapted nation under the last 30(!) years must have been beyond imagination. After 11 years, Tessa describes her astonishment of being able to discover Oman’s beauties which were hidden behind inaccessible tracks and mountains for centuries, in a very informative and illustrated Weekend Knack article published last wednesday (pdf in Dutch, click
here).
Actually you don’t even have to wait for 11 years to see a (r)evolution going on in Oman: I can’t tell you how amazed I am every six months I get there! And even more amazingly, it’s true Omani have found a way to integrate authenticity into modern daily life (which probably characterizes
Ibadi Muslims which almost all Omani are: orthodox and tolerant at the same time). This way, only a western, romantic way of thinking will regret the loss of “Sheherazadian” Oman. With one hospital for a UK-sized country at that time – resulting in a lot of crippled elderly people (often suffering from cataract and polio-like diseases) nowadays, the legacy of this era is still prominently present in the streets of Oman. The proof that most people welcomed this development lies in how they worship their Sultan – and no, this veneration is
not Saddam-style imposed.
The development has been extremely efficient and swift, and it really needed to be that way. Although blessed with some oil and gas reserves, Oman isn’t half as big a producer as other Gulf countries are and resources will probably be exhausted within 25 years. While still thriving on oil and gas revenues, this is the reason why Sultan Qaboos has always been insisting very strongly on the protection of the environment in order to assure continuing fisheries resources and tourism interests.
However, if you travel to Oman, keep it simple. Don’t get blinded by devastating mass development like this decadent luxury hotel complex being built right in a former designated marine protected area, just(!) to the right of the “idyllic” first picture in Tessa’s article (I’m not a racist, but damn expats for this project)! You can already book it before it’s even finished… And believe me, although the rates are well above Belgian hotel averages, they do not match the damage caused by the construction at all! For instance, I can tell you it took Louisa Ponnampalan, Iain Benson and me a 10h working day to try and move 1% of a tiny 400 years old coral reef (the ocean’s “rain forest”) threatened by the construction of the hotel’s marina. The chances for this 1% to survive such a treatment are unknown but estimated below 50%… It makes you see things in perspective, doesn’t it…
I thought I’d better end with a few more attractive Omanscape piccies showing the unexpected lush green side of the country. This is Wadi Sbah, which means Wadi “Morning”, for it’s running towards the eastern Gulf of Oman coast between Muscat and Sur.
Replace the camels by cows, and you’d reckon you’d be in Rwanda or something. This is the graded road winding to Tawai Atair (“Source of the Birds”, a 200m wide and deep sinkhole) through the subtropical rainforest on the Dhofari mountains (southern province along the Arabia Sea coast).